Facing Decay

The pursuit of youth and beauty transcends time periods. As now, women in the early modern period also sought to turn back the clock using cosmetic recipes promising beauty and clear, younger-looking skin.

Facing Decay systematically examines early modern visual art, anti-aging recipes, and a range of other writings to investigate the period’s obsession with youth and beauty—and the corollary anxiety about age and decay. It provides the first examination of not only why but how early modern women sought to fight the appearance of old age. Author Erin Griffey argues that youthful skin was not simply a cosmetic pursuit; it was regarded as a signal of health, and thus beauty regimens intersected with medical practice. She takes beauty and its decay seriously and links therapeutic cosmetics to not only medical knowledge but also scientific ingenuity, social benefit, and cultural agency.

This interdisciplinary book negotiates both the representations and the practical applications of beauty culture in early modern Europe through the history of art, society, medicine, and science. It is a fascinating and frequently surprising work that should appeal to anyone interested in the history of women, aging, medicine, beauty culture, and beauty recipes.

“Facing Decay deftly navigates early modern Europe’s cosmetic landscape, shedding a new, critical light on the practices and materials of beauty regimens. Erin Griffey offers an exciting and sophisticated analysis of the cultural meanings of feminine beauty and youth, revealing that cosmetics were medical, social, and cultural agents, not mere surface adornment. Tyrannical beauty regimes, we learn, are not exclusively modern phenomena. Much was at stake when Renaissance beauty was fashioned and displayed.”—Timothy McCall, author of Brilliant Bodies: Fashioning Courtly Men in Early Renaissance Italy

Erin Griffey is Associate Professor of Art History at the University of Auckland. She is the author of On Display: Henrietta Maria and the Materials of Magnificence at the Stuart Court and editor of Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe: Fashioning Women.

List of Illustrations

Acknowledgments

List of Abbreviations

Note on the Text

Introduction

1. Sourcing Beauty Secrets: Women and Bodies

of Knowledge

2. Facing Beauty and Decay: Principles and

Portrayal

3. Materializing Beauty: Ingredients,

Principles, and Patterns

4. Formulating Beauty: Processes, Formulas,

and Applications

Epilogue

Notes

Bibliography

Index

Download a PDF sample chapter here: Introduction

Art History & Architecture

           Early Modern

Gender Studies

History

           Early Modern

           European

Medieval and Early Modern Studies

           Early Modern Art and Architecture

           Early Modern History